Finding the Right Ball

When it comes to bowling balls the market is flooded with options and strong opinions. The truth of the matter is that while certain kinds of balls will definitely suit your personal style more than others, as long as you understand your ball and know what to do with it, you’ll be able to make any ball you use capable of a perfect game. When thinking about what your next (or first even) ball will be, there are four main components to consider: the core, the coverstock, your bowling style, and the weight.

The core is where a bowling ball gets the majority of its weight from, and is located at the very center of the ball. Cores come in one of two ways, either symmetrical or asymmetrical. Within each there are countless designs that companies have come up with over the decades. The main thing that sets the two apart is what type of motion they cause the ball to create on the lane.
- Symmetrical cores are often used in “spare balls," or for people who want to throw straight shots. This makes them really good for beginners, but aside from one or two as spare balls you won’t see any more-experienced bowlers using them in their bag.
  - Spare balls are balls a bowler will use exclusively for picking up spares. They have a lower hook potential and can still maintain an angular grip on the lane without actually hooking much
- Asymmetrical cores are where the true artistry behind bowling ball design is seen. These cause far more aggressive reactions and a higher hook potential because of the uneven weight distribution. Here are 3 examples of cores, the Hammer Rebel and the Pitch Purple are examples of symmetrical cores, while the Harsh Reality is an example of an asymmetrical core.

The coverstock is the outer layer of the ball, and is where the material used is important. There are six materials most-used for these, and each has a different purpose due to how it interacts with the oil used on the lane. There are some more combinations out there, but if you have a good understanding of these you'll be able to decipher any others you come across.
- Plastic - these are your typical house balls, they offer very low hook potential and are good for straight bowling
- Urethane - these balls are incredibly smooth and fluid in their motion, although they can pack a massive hook if used properly. Use with caution as they burn the oil pattern the quickest, and can build you a wall you may not be able to overcome dependent on your other ball options. That said, they are my favorite type and only require you to be flexible with them
- Reactive resin - these tend to be the balls typically recommended to infrequent bowlers who are trying to get more into it. They allow for a moderate amount of hook potential, while
- Pearl - these balls are meant to cover greater distance before starting to burn out and hook
- Solid - these have a lot of pores on the shell, which causes them to absorb oil at a faster rate. This causes a larger hook, but also causes the oil pattern to be burnt up quicker
- Hybrid - these are a perfect balance between the Pearl and Solid variants, allowing for a sooner hooking point than the pearl, while also maintaining a further distance than the solid
The oil pattern of a lane is CONSTANTLY changing as it is used, even one shot can start to burn away one spot and build a wall in another. That is why most upper level bowlers have multiple balls they swap out as the games progress.
There are four general bowling styles, and determining which one you fall under can help you narrow down what type of ball you should get. I myself fall under three of them all situationally, so don't feel like its the end all be all!
- Straight - no hooking, just a nice clean shot down the lane. It can be done either from the corners diagonally to the center, or straight down the middle from start to end
- Cranker - the bowler stands on the left of the approach and aims for the far right outside of the lane. This allows for the most dramatic hook angle
- Tweener - the bowler stands towards the middle of the lane and throws to the right side of the lane. This allows for a lot of hook potential while still favoring control of the right boards
- Stroker - the bowler stands on the right side of the approach and aims to ride the outside while heading left. This allows for a less drastic hook which utilizes the natural mechanics of the oil and ball to reach the center pocket of the pins

Generally speaking, the heavier of a bowling ball that you are able to manage safely, the better. This tends to be about 10% of your body weight until you build more muscle from repeated practice. The heaviest bowling balls are 16lbs, although with modern equipment a lot of bowling centers don't allow heavier than 15lbs to be used due to issues with jamming the ball return system
As I mentioned earlier, if you understand the type of ball you have and know what its strengths and weaknesses will be, any ball you use can be tamed for success. If you're looking for an easier match though, these categories should help you narrow down what ball to add to your bag next, or even what your first ball should be if you're just getting started! One final comment I'll mention is to check in with your alley's pro shop worker and see if they have anything they're willing to let you test out. Often times they have a huge inventory of balls they've worked on but the owner never picked up, or if you're really lucky they'll let you use one of theirs while they talk to you about it:)